Even if you’re not a birder, the Ballestas are remarkable

Wonderful visit to the Reserva Nacional Islas Ballestas. Only protected since 2010, the area was once covered by guano up to 70m thick. The nineteenth century guano trade created modern "input-intensive" farming and guano is still mined though in much lower quantities. Before the birdshit came the birds and they are still there in vast quantities and configurations, … Continue reading Even if you’re not a birder, the Ballestas are remarkable

Dry & dryer… on to Paracas

Departed Lima for Paracas, a coastal city several hours south, aboard a double-decker tourist bus. A very bleak desert journey with endless semi-cultivated fields, debris, half-finished buildings and an occasional dusty person. A depressing sight and hard to imagine there was anything worth seeing or visiting. Our destination changed that perception. Paracas is a small, walkable beach … Continue reading Dry & dryer… on to Paracas